Reddit refuge, escentric engineer and serial hobbyist.
The initial debugging you did, how did you root cause to the PSU? Your debugging aside I would check the fuse and MOV first. Did you have any bad weather recently? Lightning will take out your fuse and MOV and they’re an easy fix. Google what a Metal Oxide Varistor looks like. Next I would check for any damaged or blackened parts, then check the capacitors for bulging and capacitence values. Anything after that will get heavy on the EE side of things.
Legit companies won’t just print it without self testing. At any point the EU can demand test data and if you don’t have it they can block your company from shipping there. It also opens the company up to lawsuits. Big companies with a brand to protect won’t mess around with this, it’s cheaper to design and test.
I personally wouldn’t put any unbranded and uncertified AC to DC converter in my home. Without proper regulatory testing and certification it’s a fire hazard.
What did you hook up? You mentioned using cords? But first off, what you pictured, you need to make sure it’s wired correctly. There is no standard for barrel jacks. The center pin can be positive or negative and the jacket and be positive or negative. If you’re using a generic 5.5x2.1mm female barrel jack most generic 12v power supplies overwhelmingly do center pin positive and jacket negative. Once you get polarity correct check the amperage rating of the supply and the motor. Motors usually require huge in rush current to start and can easily trigger a short circuit protection on the supply output
Wow OK, great pictures. First I will say the PCB and components look super clean and the design, components and overall design looks very high quality. I’m kind of surprised this isn’t working because it doesn’t appear to be low quality, quite the opposite. The board is also super clean and well care for. I didn’t expect all the PCBs to be broken out, there appears to be a dedicated PSU board and I assume an amplifier board separate. Usually everything is all on one board. Perhaps you can order a new PSU from a different vendor if you figure out what voltages it should output, is there any clear marking on the output where there is no voltages to tell you what should be there?
OK so you tested the MOV and its 470kohm that is GOOD. It should be high resistance unless its damaged and then it typically fails as an electrical short. Also you would see physical damage and blackening. Next thing I would check is the fuse, but your PSU is fancy and uses an NTC. It will be low resistance until too much current flows which heats it up and then it’s resistance climbs higher and higher to choke the current flow to a safe/manageable level. You should check that and make sure its resistance is low, less than 20ohms or so. Capacitors also look good and you tested them. Unfortunately for you, this might be a vexxing or random failure :(
Did you happen to call the company and ask for help or a repair program? It looks high enough quality that they might stand behind it and mail you a new PCB.